This is one of many articles I’ll post for those of you interested in producing your own content. My focus will be more on working with the models and equipment, than dealing with the legal (2257) stuff.

In this article I’m going to discuss setting up external lighting. While the built in flash on your camera can adequately expose your subject, it comes with some drawbacks. The image is flattened, harsh shadows may occur, and there is the constant risk of picking up red eye. By moving to external lighting, you can begin to eliminate these problems. Although the principals remain the same, regardless of the type of lighting used, I’m going to discuss this in terms of using an inexpensive halogen flood light system.

For a simple set up you will need two lights. This is referred to as two-point lighting. The lights need to be positioned in front of the subject at approximately 45 degree angles, very much like you would set up a pair of stereo speakers. These lights also need to be elevated, so they point down at a 30 to 45 degree angle. They need to be elevated so that shadows are cast onto the floor instead of the backdrop.

One of the lights, the key light, functions as the primary source of light, similar to that of sun light. The key light is going to create shadows on your subject. Shadows are good, because they make your subject more dimensional. But you don’t want to over do it, by having extreme contrasts. The second light, or fill light, is used to soften the harsh contrasts created by the key light.

The fill light needs to be less intense, allowing some shadows to remain on the subject. This can be done in many different ways, depending on the lighting equipment you are using, and the size of the room you are working in. If you have a large enough space, simply move the fill light further away from the subject than your key light is. In a smaller space, try hanging a white plastic shower curtain in front of the fill light. Be very careful with this or you could end up with an unwanted melt down, or worse.

Three-point lighting adds a third light, a back or modeling light that sets the subject off from the background. The backlight is positioned 45 degrees to 75 degrees up from horizontal behind the subject, and creates a rim of brightness around heads and shoulders. Position the light far enough out of the scene so that it doesn’t shine into your camera lens. Make the light bright enough to do the job without being obvious. And make sure it is far enough back that it does not spill over the front of your subject.

Four-point lighting adds a fourth light (background light) that illuminates the backdrop, or background setting. It is positioned on the floor beaming up, or up high beaming down. Problems the background light solves are twofold: it eliminates the shadows of the subject that may appear on the background, and it makes the background stand out.

With all these lights going, the room temperature will quickly rise, so turn that AC way down and make good use of fans. I should also mention that it will be very difficult to work with inexpensive halogen floods once you move to three or four light set ups, particularly if you are working in a confined space. Although you can get away with using colored background lighting in a small space to create interesting effects against a back drop.